For the sake of SAKE !
Sake Blog by Sachiko Koyama
Let me assure you that sushi and sake are natural companions as sake is made from rice. However, it can be very difficult to pair them more precisely for two reasons: 1. Different types of fish have a variety of flavors. 2. The strong flavor of soy sauce. Also, a skilled and knowledgeable Sushi chef changes the order in how to serve their sushi according to the guests' requirements or depending on what they can get from the fish market on the day. So, when asked to choose one bottle to pair throughout the course, I often choose Junmaishu served with different vessels at different temperatures. Also, there are a vast number of types in Junmaishu too. For example, the Junmaishu from Niigata prefecture, which is known as 'Tanreri Karakuchi'(light bodied and crisp dry), mitigates the fishiness and supports and enhances well, particularly with the type of fish called 'Hikarimono' (shiny fish), such as '〆(Shime))Saba'-pickled mackerel, horse mackerel, and Gizzard Shad. I sometimes recommend to drop some sake into a soy sauce plate to soften the strong flavors of the soy sauce for sake lovers. The most difficult one is tuna. For Akami (lean tuna), which contains iron, I would recommend a full-bodied type with high acidity such as Yamahai or Kimoto at Nurukan to Hitohada at a temperature 30-35℃. For fatty Chutoro or Ohtoro, a Genshu (undiluted) type with high alcohol content would create a good congruent pairing complementing the fat in the fish. Please see my tasting note for some of the recommended sake here. お酒と鮨は合わないわけがない。何故ならお酒はお米で出来ているから、、、のはずだが、意外とお酒と鮨をきちんとマリアージュするのは難しい。理由は2点。1.魚の種類によって随分と味わいが違う 2.お醤油は香りと味わいが強く、つけると全くの違った味わいになってしまう。また、お任せでもお寿司を出す順番はお店やその日の仕入れ、お客様の好みによっても違ってくるので、一貫目の光モノには合っていたが、2貫目のマグロの漬けには違うものの方が合うというようなことが起こる。よってお店でお任せのマリアージュを頼まれた時は純米酒で通すことが多かった。純米酒にも色々ある。新潟県を代表とする端麗辛口の純米酒は、鯵やこはだ、〆鯖などの光り物ねた独特の魚っぽい味わいや臭みを和らげて寄り添う。時には醤油自体に1-2滴日本酒を垂らして召し上がる事をお酒のお好きな方にはお勧めしたい。まぐろは一番難しい。特に赤身には独特の鉄分の味わいがある為、どっしりとした純米の山廃か生酛をぬる燗でおすすめしたい。油ののった中トロや大トロには、アルコール度が高めの純米原酒が脂の旨味に負けずに味を引き立てる。お寿司にお勧めの山廃や生酛系はTasting Noteはこちら↓ Sachiko KoyamaSSI International Kikizakeshi. Sake consultant and educator. IWC Sake judge. Sake blogger.
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